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General Medical Care
The most important thing you can do for your ferret is find a ferret-knowledgeable veterinarian, get to know him/her and allow him/her to get to know your ferret through routine check-ups and regular vaccinations. Your vet will be your greatest asset if your ferret becomes ill.
Finding a ferret-knowledgeable vet is not always easy. The best resource in determining which vets in your area are good ferrets vets is other ferret owners. There are also listings on several websites (see Links section ) that will give you an idea of ferret vets in your area. No matter what you decide, be sure to make a ‘healthy' visit to the vet so that you are sure you are comfortable with him/her and ask lots of questions. This will help immensely if you ever have an emergency to make you more at ease and to be sure you have an experienced vet that you trust.
Laxative / Hairballs
Most ferrets shed their coats twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall. Grooming themselves and each other can cause a hairball to develop in their stomach or intestines. Ferrets cannot cough up hairballs the way that cats do. They also have a tendency to eat things that they shouldn't, like small parts of rubber toys, remote control buttons, t-shirts, and the list goes on. Hair and other things can cause blockages. These blockages can easily kill a ferret if not handled aggressively. An easy way to stay on top of potential blockages is to give a dose of laxative once a week or so (more during shedding season). You can use most laxatives that are safe for cats and the ferrets usually think that it's a treat. (see blockages ).
Ear Cleaning
Ferret ears get a waxy buildup that can have an unpleasant odor and be uncomfortable to the ferret if their ears aren't properly and regularly cleaned. You should clean your ferret's ears once a week with ear cleaning solution and cotton balls or cotton swabs. It's important to be careful not to push a cotton swab into the ear canal because you could damage the ferret's ear drum. Keep those ears clean and the ferret will thank you.
If you notice a dark reddish-brown to black grainy substance in your ferrets ears or if they are itching at their ears a lot, you should get them to the vet as these are signs of ear mites. (see ear mites).
Toenails
Your ferret's toenails should be trimmed regularly. You should trim their toenails at least once every two weeks, but depending on the ferret you might have to trim them more often. It is generally advised to use small animal nail trimmers, but some people use human nail trimmers. This is OK as long as you make sure they are sharp. Human nail trimmers have a tendency to make the ferrets nail splinter if the clippers aren't sharp enough. If the ferrets nails get too long or splinter it will make it difficult or painful for them to walk and the nails could get caught in bedding or rugs and could cause serious injury to your ferret while he is trying to free himself. Not to mention that those long nails can scratch you!
An easy way to trim toenails is to sit in a chair with the ferret in your lap. Lay him on his back and put some yummy treat like Ferretone on his belly. While he is licking away, he probably won't even notice you giving him a manicure! Some ferrets eat quickly, so you might have to reapply the treat before you are finished with all 20 toes. Be careful not to cut into the ‘quick' (the pink area of the toenail). This is painful for the ferret and will cause bleeding. It is important to have styptic powder /gel or cornstarch on hand in case this happens to help stop the bleeding.
Annual Exams
All ferrets should have an annual exam for general health maintenance and to allow your vet to familiarize himself with your ferret. During this exam the vet will be able to palpate the ferret for lumps or abnormalities, check ears, eyes and teeth to make sure they are healthy, and update you on things you should be aware of or be looking out for on the lookout for .
As your ferret gets older, this annual exam might also include running some bloodwork to screen for other health problems that might not be visible and to serve as a baseline in case health issues come up during the year.
Some people also choose to have stool analyzed at this annual exam as well. This would be up to you and your vet to decide what is right for your pet.
Annual Vaccines
Your ferret also needs vaccinations for rabies and distemper every year. While it is very unlikely for ferrets to contract rabies, distemper is an airborne virus that is very deadly to any ferret who is unvaccinated. Staying up-to-date on vaccinations is not only important for the health of your ferret, but also to protect them in case of an unfortunate incident where the ferret bites someone.
It is uncommon for ferrets to contract rabies, but it is still very important and required by law in many states. Imrab-3 is the only rabies vaccine approved for ferrets and should be given at three months of age and then annually thereafter.
Distemper is unfortunately much more common in ferrets and is an airborne virus that is very deadly to any ferret that is unvaccinated. Distemper can even be carried in on your shoes and clothes. Fervac-D and Purevax are the only distemper vaccinations approved for ferrets. The protocol is to give the vaccine at 8, 11, and 14 weeks and then once a year thereafter. Some people also use Galaxy distemper vaccine, but this is not USDA approved for use in ferrets.
This information taken from American Ferret Association guidelines. Further information on vaccinations and guidelines can be found at: http://ferret.org/pdfs/general/vaccpolicy2001.pdf.
Vaccination Reactions
It is important to have vaccinations done at a veterinary office and to wait for at least 30 minutes after the vaccination before you leave the office. In the event that you choose to give vaccinations yourself or have them done elsewhere, it is imperative that you have a plan for and access to emergency care in case of an adverse reaction. Allergic reactions can happen to any ferret, even if he/she has never had a reaction before. Allergic reactions are characterized by vomiting, diarrhea ( sometimes often bloody), lethargy, redness or swelling of the ears, eyes, or nose, difficulty breathing, seizures and very obvious discomfort. Reactions range in severity but can be very serious, sometimes even resulting in death, and must be handled by a trained professional.
Some vets will choose to pretreat your ferrets with an antihistamine to help lessen any reaction. You can talk with your vet about the pros and cons of pretreatment. If Even if your vet chooses to pretreat, it is still very important that you remain at the clinic for at least 30 minutes after the vaccinations.
If your ferret has a reaction, it is important to discuss the situation with your vet to determine if that ferret should receive vaccinations and/or pretreatment in the future. ADV Testing
Your ferrets should be tested annually for Aleutians Disease Virus. This virus is 100% deadly in ferrets. This can be done through your vet's office or you can do it at home yourself to save money. More information about the virus and testing can be found in the virus section.
Heat
Ferrets do not fare well in high temperatures. Heatstroke can come on rapidly and can kill your ferret. You should be careful to make sure your ferrets living area is cool and comfortable. If temperatures are to exceed 80 degrees, it is important to take extra measures or find your ferret an air-conditioned living space. NEVER leave your ferret in a closed-up car. It's illegal in many states, and could kill your ferret in minutes. Obvious signs of heatstroke are panting and lethargy, but could also include discharge from the nose or mouth, limpness or loss of consciousness. The most important thing to remember when dealing with heatstroke is not to lower the ferret's body temperature too quickly or the ferret will go into shock and get him to a vet IMMEDIATELY.
If you do not have access to air conditioning in the hot summer months, there are still steps you can take to help avoid heatstroke. Most importantly, make sure that your ferret's cage is not in direct sunlight. Be sure to keep cool water available for your ferret to drink. Ferrets do not sweat like humans, so fans are not very useful as we usually think of them . One use for a fan would be to place a bowl of cool water or ice in front of it to circulate cooler air. Another common remedy is to fill some small soda bottles with water and freeze them. Then you can slip them inside a tube sock and place them in your ferret's cage to help lower the surrounding air temperature and for the ferret to lie near. You can also move your ferrets to the coolest room in the house or your basement. However you deal with the heat, it's important to always remain aware of the danger of heatstroke in warmer temperatures and monitor your ferret accordingly. Shedding / Brushing
Most ferrets shed their coats twice a year, in the spring and fall. During this time it might be useful to brush your ferret to help keep fur from ending up everywhere, but also to help cut down on the possibility of your ferret developing a blockage from a hairball. During shedding season it is extremely important to provide laxative or hairball remedy to your ferret often. (see hairballs/ laxative ).
Spay / Neuter
It is very likely that if you purchase your ferret from a pet store or adopt one from a shelter, that the ferret has already been spayed or neutered. Unaltered ferrets can experience health and behavior difficulties. Unspayed females who go into heat will stay in heat until they are bred. An unbred female if left in heat can become anemic and die if they are left in heat too long . Unneutered males go into rut . And During rut they become very aggressive and smell much stronger than neutered males. For these reasons, it is very important to have your ferret altered if you do not intend to breed them. For more information on breeding, see our breeding section . Your neutered ferret will make a better pet and will have less potential health problems in the future.
An issue with the decision to neuter is what age the procedure should be done. Currently ferrets that are sold commercially are typically spayed/neutered very young (around four weeks or younger). It is argued that this early altering causes health problems later in life, particularly in the endocrine system where growth and development is controlled. We are currently working on legislation to regulate the altering of kits. For more information on this, see our legislative section, or to become a member and support our efforts to promote this legislation, see our membership section.
Descenting
As with neutering, most ferrets that you buy from a pet store or adopt from a shelter will be descented. This means that their anal sacs have been removed. This is largely a cosmetic procedure and is unnecessary. Contrary to popular belief, ‘descenting' a ferret does not remove the normal musky smell from the ferret, it only makes it impossible for the ferret to ‘poof'. Poofing is the term used to describe when a ferret expresses the liquid in its anal sacs. Many animals (like dogs) also have these same glands, but mustelids, like ferrets and skunks, seem more apt to use them. Unlike its relative the skunk, the odor produced by the ferret disperses quickly and is not as pungent. If you have a ferret that has not been descented, remember that it is not necessary to have their anal sacs removed unless they become impacted or infected, and then only on the advice of your veterinarian.
Basic First Aid Kit
It is almost inevitable that at some time your ferret will become ill or require medical attention. The following is a recommended list of items to have on hand in case of emergency or illness. Remember to never medicate your ferret without first discussing it with your veterinarian.
Pediatric Benadryl – useful for allergic reactions and colds
Pepto Bismol – for stomach ills
Vitamins – for an added boost or replacement when a ferret is not eating or losing nutrients to vomiting or diarrhea (like PetTinic, NutriDrops, Ferretvite or Nutrical)
Honey/ Karo Syrup – useful if the ferret has a hypoglycemic seizure due to insulinoma (see the insulinoma section )
Q-tips – to clean ears or wounds, apply medicines
Gauze – for wounds
Styptic Powder or Gel – to stop bleeding, especially useful if you accidentally clip a toenail too short (can also use cornstarch)
Baby Food – Meat Based – recommended is Gerber's Stage 2 Chicken and Chicken Gravy or Turkey and Turkey Gravy (must be MEAT, not meat and veggies) – good for ferrets with upset tummies, ferrets who need high protein diets
Electrolyte replacement – recommended is Pedialyte or similar – good for dehydration , but expires quickly after opening
Vet #, Emergency #, Poison Control # - these should be posted on your refrigerator or other highly visible and easy to access area
Health Records – it's important to keep health records up to date and easy to find in case of a trip to an emergency hospital where your ferret hasn't been seen before
Any prescription medicines that your ferret is taking
a/d – This is a canned prescription food made by Hill's Science Diet and is useful for ferrets who are ill or not eating
peroxide – to clean wounds initially (for continued cleaning use warm soap and water)
Neosporin – to apply to wounds, cream could be preferable to ointment, which may attract less debris
Probiotic – ask your vet about using a probiotic when giving antibiotics
Rectal thermometer or ear thermometer made specifically for ferrets – normal ferret temperature is 102 F
Giving Meds
If your ferret becomes ill, you will most likely have to figure out a way to get them to take the medicine prescribed by your veterinarian. Rest assured, if you get more medicine in the ferret than you end up wearing on your first try, you're doing well. Some medicines can be disguised in a treat such as Ferretone or Ferretvite, while others must be given the hard way. Consult your vet on the best method of giving the medicine. If you must give it by mouth via syringe and it's a nasty-tasting medicine (and most are), be prepared for medicine to go flying on your first try. First, load the syringe and pick a place where you can sit comfortably and access the syringe. Next, get the ferret and hold the ferret firmly by the scruff on the back of their neck. It might be helpful to wrap the ferret in a towel if they are particularly squirmy or if it is a rather nasty medication. Place the tip of the syringe in the back corner of the ferret's mouth and squirt the medicine onto their tongue toward the FRONT of their mouth and wait for them to swallow. This is very important. If you squirt the medicine into the back of the mouth, you can cause the ferret to aspirate the medicine (inhale it into their lungs) and cause serious problems. Congratulations! You only have to do this a dozen more times or so and by then you'll have the hang of it for sure! (It gets easier, I promise).
Force-Feeding
Force-feeding a ferret is sometimes necessary if they become anorexic due to stomach ills such as an ulcer or other health problems . Consult your veterinarian before beginning a force-feeding regimen. Force-feeding is done in much the same way as described above for giving medication, but is ultimately much, much messier. You use a much bigger syringe, alot more towels, and you must be especially careful that the ferret does not aspirate the food into his lungs. If your ferret is not eating at all on his won, you must do this every 4 hours or so. Less often if your ferret is eating smaller meals in between.
What you use in the syringe as your food supplement is up to you and your vet. Common suggestions are Hill's a/d, chicken or turkey baby food, or another duck soup recipe.
